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Ethiopia Trip Report
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Ethiopia Trip Report
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2 November 2002 - 10 November 2002

This was not a typical vacation.  It was more of a people trip than a places trip, which made it all the more interesting.  Here are some of the people I met along the way.

"Why?" That was the typical response I was given when I told people I was going to Ethiopia.  I have always wanted to go to Africa, but I admit that I had envisioned a more traditional safari adventure in Kenya or Tanzania.  However, the more I learned about Ethiopia, the more interested I grew in seeing the historical sites and natural preserves that populate this ancient and fascinating country.  I was to see none of this on my trip; its purpose was of a different nature.  I went with a small group of individuals involved with a Utah based non-profit organization, The Children of Ethiopia Education Fund or COEEF.  COEEF's mission is to match Ethiopian children with sponsors who are willing to donate a mere $150 per year (tax-deductible) for their schooling.  As a sponsor, I was invited to go on a trip to meet the students and educators and to tour the facilities.  It was an amazing trip full of amazing individuals.

Cast of characters: 
 
Mr. Norm (aka Norm Perdue), the founder of COEEF,
Bill Brough,
Mike and Jayne Goodsell,
Virginia Ward,
with a special guest appearance by Mr. Victor Ozeri.

 
Kuyera and the Ethiopian Adventist College (EAC)

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Southern Ethiopia

 
Although it was Sunday, the girls were waiting for our arrival.  We heard a great collective scream as the van approached the school gates and the girls glimpsed Mr. Norm.  It was nearly impossible to leave the van because we were immediately stormed by the students.

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Traditional Home (with Virginia and Ruth)

We also took a small group of the girls to see some of the local sites.  First, we went to Wondo Genet Hot Springs.  The drive up was quite lovely as the terrain began to look more like a Costa Rican rainforest than an African savannah.
 
 
 
 
The next day we went to Lake Langano, one of the Rift Valley lakes.  Bird watching appears to be superb here, judging from the number and variety of birds I spotted from my room at the Bekele Mola Hotel in Shashemene (spartan but clean and very cheap).  The girls had a great time throwing rocks in the lake and monkeying around in the playground.

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Bill and his sponsored child, Burtukan

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Kedir and Jen at Lake Langano

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Laliftu Aman, my sponsored child

Our group first headed about three hours south to Kuyera, the location of the Ethiopian Adventist College.  The EAC schools the majority of COEEF's students and provides education from the first grade through college.  The further away from Addis Ababa we drove, the more goats, donkeys, cows and pedestrians there were on the main road (which was suprisingly flat, straight and pothole free). 

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An EAC Welcome

 
We passed a couple of days in the area, for the most part staying at the Hotel Pinna in Awasa (highly recommended).  While here, we were treated to a program of songs and poems by some of the students, a tour of the college (I found the computer lab and library most interesting), and visits to some of the student's homes.
 
 

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At Wondo Genet Hot Springs

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Playing at Lake Langano

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Ruth Throwing Rocks

 
 
 
 
 
One of the interesting people we met along the way was Kedir Ashime.  Kedir not only volunteers his time to administrate the COEEF program for the EAC, but he also took good care of us during our stay.  He made sure we stayed in the right place, tried the right national cuisine and bought us some traditional clothes.  The trip would have been much harder without him.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Naturally, one of the greatest pleasures of the trip was meeting the child I am sponsoring, Laliftu Aman.  She is six years old and just starting at the EAC.  At the school I noticed a lot of the older girls petting her as they passed by.  I asked one of them and she said it was because "she was so small."  And she is a wee thing.  Very quiet and difficult to photograph smiling!
 
She doesn't speak much English yet so we didn't have much to say, but I enjoyed cuddling her on my lap.  Except when she got carsick all over my shoes.  Having done my fair share of barfing in cars as a child, I sympathized.

Back in Addis Ababa
 
Returning to Addis Ababa, we had a day off to do touristy things.  We took care of souvenir shopping and went to the National Museum, home of Lucy, locally known as Dinkenesh, which means "You Are Wonderful" in Amharic.  I am ashamed to admit that Virginia and I did not get out much more than that.  The trip to Kuyera was rewarding but emotionally and physically exhausting and it felt good to drink Ethiopian beer in the hotel bar, order room service and to swim in the pool.  Not to mention the awesome massages we had for about $9.

 
 
 
 
 
 
The Lem Lem School
 

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Elvis Has Entered the Building

In addition to a beautiful bouquet of flowers, we were treated to a dance program.  The traditional dances were wonderfully performed by students wearing the corresponding traditional dress.  One dancer was the exception, she performed a Michael Jackson impersonation that was most excellent!  After the dancing, we were treated to a veritable feast of delicious national food.  Naturally, I had to try each dish.
 
 

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Shake Your Bootie

 
 
During lunch I had the great pleasure of a conversation with a civil engineer named Yoseph Haile.  He was donating his services to help build a new building for the school.  One of the things I learned in our conversation was that while students can receive a free college education from the government, they do not get to choose what they study - the government does.
 
 
 
 

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Tigist

 
 
Dr. Rick and Mother Teresa's Mission
 
 

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Victor, Rick, Ruth and Zvi

 
 
 
Mr. Victor's Party
 
Mr. Victor is one of those rare individuals who has been successful in his business dealings and has decided to share his good fortune.  He came on the trip after having met Mr. Norm on an airport bus in Chicago for only 15 minutes.  Victor has a great sense of humor but is also full of you-know-what.  One the way to Rick's, he tried to convince me and Virginia that Jewish doctrine prohibits women from wearing bras at Shabbat dinner.  One of the many kind acts Victor performed during the trip was to throw a party on our final night in Addis Ababa.  A fun feast it was.  The following photos were taken by my assistant photographers Ruth Tomas and Helen Daniels, who had a great time running around with my camera.

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COEFF Girls at the Party

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Helen

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Mike and Jayne in traditional Ethiopian dress

 
 
 
The next day we went to the Lem Lem School.  As usual, we were all treated like rock stars.  Norm, in particular, is more popular than Elvis and seems to attract an entourage everywhere he appears.  He amazing to watch with the children.
 
 
 

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Will The Real Michael Jackson Please Stand Up

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The Lem Lem School Dancers

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Yoseph and Lem Lem Kids

 
 
 
 
After lunch we went to the Addis Ababa University museum with about 20 students.  The museum appeared to be quite lovely, but it was hard to tell as we each had four or five children hanging on us at all times.  We all had a blast.
 
One of the children at Lem Lem is sponsored by my friend Laura.  Laura started this whole thing by showing up for dinner one evening with darling pictures of Tigist.  Here Tigist is kissing her photo of Laura. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
One of the cool people I met in Addis Ababa was Dr. Rick Hodes.  Originally from New York, Dr. Rick has spent a good part of his career living and working in Africa.  He is a man with heart and vision.  The best part about him, though, is that he has an excellent sense of humor and can tell a mean joke.
 
Dr. Rick took us to visit Mother Teresa's Mission in Addis Ababa.  Having been forewarned that this clinic serves terminal patients from the bottom of Ethiopian society, I was expecting the worst.  However, instead of finding wretchedness and despair, I found the Mission to give off a feeling of peace and dignity.
 
 
 
 
 
 

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Mr. Victor at the Lem Lem School

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Ruth

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Fitsum, Lem Lem School English Teacher

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Final Notes

There are far more interesting people than I could mention here.
 
Jonas Kebede, who runs a day shelter for street children.  He receives no pay for the work he does but supports himself and his family by selling beautiful works of art that he and his brother create.
 
Hanouk, our 22 year old driver in Addis Ababa, who would like to go to college but needs to support his siblings.
 
The teachers and administrators at the Lem Lem School and EAC.

And most of all the students, each one treasuring their chance at education as a great gift.
 
 
Suggested Reading:
 
1. Notes from the Hyena's Belly: An Ethiopian Boyhood, by Nega Mezlekia.  A difficult story beautifully told.  Recommended to everyone whether they are specifically interested in Ethiopia or not.
 
2. The Sign and The Seal: The Quest for the Lost Ark of the Covenant, by Graham Hancock.  However tenuous its facts, this book gives great insight into Ethiopia's history and culture.  A bit academic in parts.
 
3. The Spectrum Guide to Ethiopia, by Camperapix, is a bit out of date regarding facts but is chock full of photos that will inspire you to take a trip to Ethiopia and has made me want to find time for such sights on a return trip.
 
Suggested Listening:
 
1. Gigi, a self-titled album by a fabulous vocalist.  Very jazzy.
 
2. Ethiopiques, volume 1, a fine introduction to classic Ethiopian music.